MAINTENANCE GUIDES - Now Including link to wiring diagram

Fixing stuff and replacing bits to keep your LML road worthy.

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MAINTENANCE GUIDES - Now Including link to wiring diagram

Postby Geezer » Mon Jun 13, 2011 8:00 pm

Right guys, if anyone posts a helpful maintenance guide like the one below from Tony, point it out to me and I'll slap it in this post to keep all the info available for everyone (I'll leave the original topics to run for comments).


HOW TO CLEAN A CARB

Tony wrote:Some of us take it for granted that most 2 stroke LML owners are aware of how important a clean and functioning carb is on our scooters. Cleaning the carb is a must for all owners and can solve various performance problems you might face. Having had a couple of messages etc about carb cleaning i thought I would do a quick, "how to". This is the way that i clean my carb and has served me well for nearly 25 years. It may be different to the way others do it but its a good a start as any....

Tools/Products Required

Phillips screwdriver
Slim flat head screwdriver
needle nose pliers
Carb Cleaner
Compressed Air ( optional)

Here is the carb cleaner and air I use. The cleaner is a multi purpose one and is very good, and very cheap :D . I get mine in my local "sells everything" store, you know the kind of shop i mean, like a posh pound store. This version costs a quid a can. The Air is part of my airbrush set and is a few quid a can. Both last for ages though.

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The Method

Take your side panel off to expose the engine, here is mine, rather dirty after a 200 odd mile run

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Take the carb top off by unscrewing the two screws. The right hand one is a bit of a bugger as its recessed under the frame a bit. Either use a long phillips driver or a Zed driver, like mine..nice and easy though as these screw heads strip very easily

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Now the workings of the carb are exposed. Remove the small black grommet from around the Idle screw and then remove the two flat head screws from the air filter and remove the filter.

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Filter out, here is mine, as you can see it is very dirty.

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Holding the filter vertically, use your carb cleaner to spray from the top to the bottom a couple of times so that all the colour reverts back to normal......repeat this using the can of air too, or just shake it really really well..

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Put your filter somewhere to dry a bit......now we will look at the jets......have a look at this picture...the jets are just behind the Idle Screw...both are of soft brass construction...the bigger one is your main stack...made up of the air corrector, which fits into the atomiser with the main jet pushed into the bottom....the smaller one is your idle jet.....

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using a slim flat head screwdriver, remove the main jet. Hold this , gently, in a pair of needle nosed pliers and get your can of cleaner. Spray down through the top of the jet and then spray across the jet, through the small holes. We need the jets to be spotless. Even the slightest bit of crud can foul the engine.

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repeat this with your air and replace the jet. Do exactly the same with your idle jet.

When we are here we can unscrew the mixture screw bung ( small nylon bung to the bottom left of the carb, accessed through the outside left of the carb), this will expose the carb to the outside. Now with your can of carb cleaner spray the carb liberally from right to left, all the excess cleaner and crud should now be getting blasted out of the mixture screw hole. Repeat with the air.

Now replace air filter, dont forget the grommet for the idle screw. Now check the black rubber that seals the carb body to the lid. This has to be free from damage and fit for purpose. If it isnt then replace it. Its only a couple of quid. Carb top back on and the job is done. Time to clean the spark plug and have a cup of tea :D


and a wee video to help you along

http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=YTNn-Xu_ ... e=youtu.be
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Re: MAINTENANCE GUIDES

Postby Geezer » Thu Jun 23, 2011 6:15 pm

IF YOU HAVE NO SPARK FROM THE PLUG, AMONG MANY THINGS IT COULD BE, THE STATOR PLATE MIGHT HAVE FAILED... HERE'S HOW TO TEST IT:

STATOR VALUES, HOW TO TEST USING A MULTI METER

STATOR VALUES FOR YOUR INFO

the LML stators are identical except for the push connectors to the piaggio versions. The following tests can be carried out to a Piaggio Vespa stator in exactly the same way.

a sep cribb as follows
THREE IGNITION GROUPS (cables out of the stator to black connection box on top of the fly wheel cover and to the CDI unit):
1. green(LT)
2. white(EARTH)
3. red (CDI trip wire)
TWO LIGHT GROUPS:
4. black (EARTH)
5. blue (UN REGULATED AC)(more you rev the engine more voltage it makes)

to test the ignition (set metre to resistance ohms)put your black probe to the white cable (earth) and then make circuits with your red probe to:

1. engine case (should be short circuit or less than 1ohm). if not you have no earth continuity.

2. red wire (should be 93-120ohms) if it is outside of this your pickup (halls effect sensor is fucked)

3. green wire (should be 450-540 ohms)if values fall outside of this your single ignition coil winding is damaged.

to test the lighting groups put your black probe to the black (earth) cable, then:

4. test to engine case, again this should be a short circuit less than 1 ohm.

last test on blue cable, start engine, set metre to AC voltage metre.

5. on engine idle it should be pumping out minimum of 21-38 volts at 600 rpm + you can get peak voltage to these values on a good kick of the starter pedal if you take the spark plug out first.

all these values are common on all electronic vespa stators. In addition to the above elctrical tests you should physically inspect your stator. Look for breaks in windings, loose studs, dry soldered joints etc.
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Re: MAINTENANCE GUIDES

Postby Geezer » Thu Jun 23, 2011 6:18 pm

INDICATOR PROBLEMS? READ THIS....
Compiled by Tony.
First we have to understand how they actually work.

The Flasher unit

Image

This unit as you can see is a small green box that is mounted behind the battery under the left hand side panel. This unit gets its power from the CDi and then passes this power to the buzzer under the horncover and to the indicator switch. When we operate our switch we open up the circuit in the direction we wanna turn. So signalling left opens up this circuit and sends power to the front indicator directly and the rear side panel, via the side panel pin ( hole where side panel pin locates). The earths provided by firstly the connections within the glovebox, the black wire here, which goes from the indicator fitting and is secured to the frame....

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and the spring/clip on the side panel

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Its not only the large clip of the panel that fits onto the small bracket on the frame, but also the spring which touches the panel. The rear lug also provides an earth to a lesser degree. These normally have a bit of rubber on them but I usually take mine off.

IT IS ESSENTIAL THAT THESE EARTHING POINTS HAVE GOOD CONTACT IN ORDER TO COMPLETE THE CIRCUIT............

So, now we know how they work....what could possibly go wrong ??????????

Most common fault is for the indicators to go out of synch. This could be the front ones flashing like mad and the rear ones not, or vice versa. The probable cause of this is one of the earths not making good contact. A solution is to check the each earth points individually. Unscrew the glovebox ones and give the frame a rub with wet n dry or similar, to aid the contact, then do them up again. Check the spring/clip and rear lug of the panels. A common cause is just road grime geting in between a point of contact. So give them a good clean.

Another cause of the problem is the switch. The switch has 6 wires within it. A flasher feed (red), left front, left rear, right front, right rear and flasher feed (white). It is quite common for one of these wires to be "nipped off" a solder joint at the switch. To check the switch just undo the screw and pull the switch, gently out of the housing. If you find one out just re-solder it onto the empty join. This is my switch, of late,

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as you can see its been soldered and re-soldered and is pretty tired looking, so much so that i replaced this with this one

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now this switch is a helluva lot easier to contend with as it has the screw fittings, just like wiring a plug, which are not only stronger, but also easier to replace if they pop out.

Now i recently had an indicator problem and none of the above would solve it. Basically my front indicator would come on, but not flash, and none of my rear indicators would work. As I mentioned i checked everything, as above, but nothing. In this case its time to grab yourself a multi meter. Here is one that i got on ebay for a fiver

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Set the meter to check for power, (dial on DC Voltage side set at 20)....I checked the power at the rear panel lug and there was nothing. I removed the tank and the small plastic cover at the floor to expose the inside of the panel lugs. These are spade ended with the wires joining the loom,

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Nothing there either. Next, set the meter for continuity. We need to find out if we have any breaks etc. Check the panel by touching the metal lug and the end of the panel wire at the indicator unit

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that was fine. I then started on the switch. Checking all the wires. On checking the continuity from the flasher unit (red) to the red wire in the switch there was nothing, no continuity. Trace this wire back and we see it goes through the buzzer. So continuity check from flasher to buzzer, was fine, but nothing from buzzer to switch. So this was my problem, easy fix, new wire from buzzer to red terminal in switch. Job done..Just goes to show that they are really simple machines but you just gotta do it methodically.

Most indicator problems can be sorted as above. If not check your bulbs and the actual indicator units too. Our machines vibrate quite a lot and the bulbs and units are kinda fragile. have a ready stock of bulbs in your shed, only a couple of quid for 4. If your unit is faulty just replace it. Its only two nuts and bolts to take the unit off , once you have taken the lenses off.

Another word of caution is the liberal use of WD40. Its great for chasing water and grease etc away from our electrics, but it does not provide a good earth so keep it away from your earthing points or make sure you clean it off of these points after use.

Handy things for your shed would be a selection of crimps,spare wire, solder, soldering iron. if you dont have a multi meter, you can also check for power by using an old indicator unit. Tape the live wire to the shaft of a screwdriver. If you wanna find out if there is power just touch the point with the screwdriver whilst touching the frame with the other wire, the bulb will light up if there is power ;)


Happy indicating

PS....There is a wiring diagram contained within the LML Owners manual ( the wee book you get with a new scooter)....through my we diagnosis above i found this diagram to be wrong. It lists the wiring of one part of the switch as Brown, Pink, white, when in actual fact its Pink, brown , White...Just me being pedantic but i might just have to let them know :lol:
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Re: MAINTENANCE GUIDES

Postby Geezer » Wed Sep 26, 2012 8:38 pm

BRAKES

Also compiled by Tony:
Our scooters are fortunate to have a front disc brake which doesnt require constant maintenance but it should also not be overlooked when you are carrying out any work. The pads should be checked regularly especially if you begin to hear grating noises or rust showing on the disc.

So here goes.......this is the way i would check or change my front disc brake/pads.....

what you will need

13mm Socket
thin flat head screwdriver
pliers
brake/contact cleaner
copper slip
old rag

should take you about 20 minutes from start to finish





First thing we have to do is take the front wheel off........

now have a look at the right hand side of the caliper, on the right of the "circle" you will see 2 bolt heads, just undo these. The caliper should now be able to be wiggled free from the disc.

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Looking at the caliper we can see that there is a plastic cover , this is just a dust cover and can be taken off at this stage, it just unclips.

Now we can look into the caliper

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we can see both pads, the anti rattle spring and the brake pin. If we look at the pin that goes through the caliper we can see one end has a wee circlip around its end. With the flat screw driver just remove this clip, it just pushes off, but watch you dont end up pinging it all over yer shed ;) keep yer thumb over it.

Once this clip has been removed just use your pliers and pull the pin from the other end, all the way through. This will basically make the pads and anti rattle spring fall out......

So you should now have a plastic dust cover, circlip, pin, anti rattle spring and 2 brake pads......like this

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if you have a wee look inside the caliper now you can see 2 pistons, one in each side, they are like upturned cups....


now we can inspect, clean and replace where needed.

Have a wee look inside the caliper and just give it a skoosh with brake cleaer and a wipe with your rag. WE DO NOT WANT TO PLAY WITH THE PISTONS.........leave them alone as if you play with them you may accidentally bleed your brake hose and have loadsa DOT 4 all over the place....so leave them alone.....at the most you want to make sure they are pushed back in order to replace the discs....to do this use a large screwdriver...place it through the caliper and use the bar of the screwdriver to push the pistons back.........

Have a look at your brake pads now....I replaced the standard LML ones with these Malossi ones last year. They only cost a tenner but they are much better, as you can see I have plenty of pad left still...

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once off and happy that they can be re-used we might as well clean them......spray some brake cleaner onto the pads and give them a wipe with your rag...do this a couple of times.....as you can see the pad on the left has been cleaned....the pad on the right hasnt.....

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so make sure you give them a good clean.........after cleaning the pads.....caliper.....all thats left is to use yer cleaner on the disc itself......a wee rub will do....

now to reassemble

Tony's top tip is to use a little bit of copper slip on the REAR of yer brake pad....this will stop any squeaks ;)

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So take the caliper in your hand and place the pads inside it, you can use a wee finger to keep the pads seperated in the caliper, line up the holes at the top of the pads with the holes in the caliper, where the pin goes through.......now we want the anti rattle spring to sit in the caliper, with the long wide bit at the "top". Now put the pin in the caliper and push it through the first pad, it then goes over the anti rattle spring and then through the next pad and out the other side. Secure the pin with the circlip and replace the dust cover.

Now fit your caliper back onto the scooter, replace the two bolts and the front wheel......jobs a good un.....



There is nothing hard to this job but it can be a bit fiddly the first time you do it......replacing the pads yourself will save you about £50
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Disclaimer: My posts are my personal views, they might not always be fact, but they are certainly my opinion!
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LML Wiring diagram - LARGE

Postby SilverfoxUK » Fri Feb 08, 2013 9:56 am

Hi guys, I have noticed that nearly all wiring diagrams for the LML on the net are pretty much the same, with the text unreadable. (only the PDF manual diagram can be viewed larger)

So, I have created a high res version (with readable labels) for anyone to download. Hope it helps.

https://docs.google.com/file/d/0BznSizG ... sp=sharing

Click the '100%' button to see full size, or better: Download it.
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